At Arctic Spas we understand that there are a huge number of hot tubs out there that require different methods of servicing and repair, and our aim has always been to help with advice for those customers, even if they’re not our own, when it comes to chemicals, repairs, or servicing.
For this post, we want to provide some insight on what to look for when servicing a foam filled insulated hot tub, and how to effect a repair if it’s required.
On most foam filled spas, the equipment (pumps, heater, motherboard etc..) are normally situated beneath the topside control panel (where the customer can operate their pumps, lights and control temperature), and this is the one panel on the cabinet where you can gain access to all the main equipment (image below):
Once you have access to this area, you are looking to ensure that all the pump and heater connections are still tight and that there are no signs of any water loss. If they are loose, or the O ring has perished, you will see clear signs of water loss, normally a white crusty build up on or around the connections.
Once you are happy that these fittings are tight (and replaced any o rings if required) you then want to fire up all the pumps/blowers and check they are still holding water when under pressure.
Another aspect to check is for water loss from any other fittings. Beneath any hot tub there are thousands of glued connections, which all have the potential to leak in time. Obviously, with a foam filled product you cannot see the connections, but if any are a source of water loss, you should see water pooling around your hot tub. If you do, then you need to gain access to the area closest to the pooling to begin looking for the source.
In most cases this involves removing the cabinet sections and simply digging away the foam to reach the hose and jet connections so you can visually check them (images below):
Once you have removed the foam around the fittings/jets it may be that the water is coming from another location as it can worm its way through the foam (which is basically a sponge) and come out at a different point. If you need to track this, you can try digging away more of the foam and following the damp areas until you reach the source. You can also use a dye in the water which will then give you a coloured track to follow back to the source.
If it turns out to be a glued connection that has failed, these can normally be repaired by simply heating the connection to break the old glue away, then re-connect with another application of glue.
If it is a leak from a jet body (where the jet sits against the acrylic shell and under side of the spa hull) this can normally be repaired by loosening the jet nut and replacing the perished grommet, or re-applying silicone or plastic weld to create the new seal. We recommend using plastic weld as silicone will perish again through time.
Once your repair has been done, you then want to refill the hot tub and check that your work is water tight. If it is, allow the spa to heat the re-check your work while the pumps/blowers are running to ensure they are still holding water under pressure.
If you need any further advice on repairs, or even chemical help, please do not hesitate to contact our technical team, who have over 18 years experience with all makes of hot tubs. There is nothing we haven’t seen or heard of ?
Technical helpline: 01299 250552 option 4